Goodbye Argentina, for now anyway…

It is with more than a bit of regret that we say farewell to Argentina. Never did we expect to spend three months here, but now it seems there was no way we could not. Three months is nothing in a country so huge and varied. As we head across the border into Chile, it seems a good time to do a bit of reflection on what has intrigued, amazed, and baffled us as we moved through this vast country.

The sheer scale and variety of landscapes has been completely overwhelming. Never have we visited any place that has it all — in every sense of the word. The lakes, the mountains, the glaciers, the fall color, the geology, the wildlife, the empty spaces, the wind, the wine, the MEAT — it is all just…more. Bigger. Brighter. Really, you can stick an ‘er’ or an ‘est’ on every descriptor.

Geography and Culture

Of course the amazed also applies to other parts of the geography and culture that trended toward the baffling — the roads that are bad are horrifically bad (and that is generous). The inefficiencies are annoying and unnecessary (they like to queue apparently), extending to long lines at the airport, banks, clinics, museums, and tours. If they can find a way to make something take longer, they’ll do it–resulting in more time for mate (see below). They are fiercely proud of their country and extremely nationalistic (Malvinas son Argentinas!) in spite of the ongoing political and economic issues that are evident everywhere. Although that is not to be unexpected with seesaw government leadership, gridlocked bureaucracy, massive economic inequity, fluctuating currency values and inflation headed toward 60% this year. Hmmm…possibly the US should look a bit closer at their future.

That all said, the Argentinian people are without question the friendliest, most helpful, totally honest, and completely cynical we have ever met traveling. The police/military presence is ubiquitous, so clearly they want it safe. But not an imposing presence with guns in arms like in other Latin countries (or the US), but usually very friendly accompanied by a street dog or two that hang out with them.

Dogs

On the subject of dogs — THEY LOVE DOGS. I really think that there is a dog for every one of the 15+ million people in BA. The dogs who have designated people are pampered within an inch of their lives and get walked everywhere, all the time. The dog walkers in Buenos Aires are amazing, managing up to a dozen well-behaved dogs at one time.

There are also street dogs in the city and rural areas, but they are without question the healthiest, nicest, most well taken care of street dogs you have ever seen. They do get to eat parrilla everyday, so I suppose that is part of it. They each have their own territory and everyone feeds them. They know their way around and wait for the street lights to change so they can cross with the people on the way to wherever they’re headed. They do their thing and have their lives just like the people. Rather than being a nuisance, they’re just a respected part of everyday life.

Food

The food is bland, it just is. And it gets more so as you head south — we ran into some salsa (very mild but truly salsa) in Salta, but it is only served with one particular dish. That is all. Really. They don’t even have pepper on the tables, and it is difficult to get when you ask. We had several discussions about what happens to the pepper shaker in the set…do they sell them singularly? do they ship the peppers off somewhere? No idea. If anyone ever visits a “pepper-shaker only” spot, please let us know! And yet, I saw at least three restaurants across the country bearing the name “Pepper” where you couldn’t actually find any…

Of course the meat is extraordinary– I probably will never eat another U.S. steak again. The produce quality is also very high, only fresh orange juice and lime/lemonade, only the best salads, etc. The bread is meh — very white and not great. They do eat a lot of it however. And then there is the sugar. Desserts, pastries, cookies, brownies, anything and everything with dulce de leche (spread it on your toast), tiramisu, cheesecake…and this is just for breakfast. And no, they aren’t fat.

Mate

I think the biggest mystery, without compare however, is the mate. That is yerba mate (made into a leaf tea), without question the national drink of Argentina, Uruguay, and possibly Bolivia (although we can’t attest to that, yet). If I had to, I would guess the average Argentinian drinks about 2.5 liters of the tea everyday. At least.

There is a process — you have to have a mate (which is a specific type of cup) and only one. You share. This must have been a really enormous issue with COVID. I honestly can’t imagine how that even worked. There is a straw, a bombilla, which is metal with a strainer on one end. And everyone, and I mean everyone, carries around a thermos full of hot water — the Stanley company is alive and well in southern South America.

This “set” comes in every form and color imaginable, but otherwise is always the same. Mate cup (to be shared by at least two people if not more), bombilla, and thermos.

They make rather extensive bags to carry your supplies in — again in all shapes, sizes, and colors. They have them to hang on saddles, bikes, motorcycles, the backs of chairs, over the shoulder, backpacks — you get the idea.

They bring them everywhere, as everywhere is a good place for a mate. In the car or bus or airplane, yup. In a park, yup. Standing in line, yup. Walking down the street, yup. The side of the road, yup. Everywhere.

There are agua caliente dispensers in every gas station, rest stop, museum, restaurant, so that you can refill your thermos. The smallest, sketchiest, middle-of-nowhere shop will have an agua caliente sign.

Of course, there are also the unfortunate side effects. They empty their mate cups everywhere! There’s used mate in every trash can or bathroom you see. There are even “No Drinking Mate” and “Don’t Clean Mate Cups” signs around to curb the problem.

So the next obvious question would be “is it good?” We can’t tell you. We didn’t have any. You can’t buy it in stores of cafes. It is the biggest frustration and oddity of the tourist experience, at least that we have ever run across. How can you not get to try what is really the emblem of the country? Seriously? We think there is often a specific recipe (probably by family) and they really just make it at home. And bring it out everywhere, but make it at home. You can get it in tea bags, but it is scoffed at. They would never order mate at a restaurant or cafe. I would guess the sharing with strangers was way more prevalent before the damn pandemic, but unfortunately in these crappy after-times it is less offered. We never had anyone make it for us or offer us any. So it has now become kind of an obsession with me…I will have mate. I think that’s reason enough to return to Argentina, right there. And I have to say, as we left BA, we both feel pretty sure it will not be forever. It is just all too great. Or really I should say, GREATEST.